The flowery leaves are like a hot and humid environment, suitable for use in loose, fertile and well-drained acidic soils. When planting the upper pot, it is advisable to use sandy loam rich in humus. After planting, as the new leaves grow, the amount of water can be gradually increased. At this time, it takes several hours of scattered sunlight every day, and the ambient temperature is maintained between 22 and 28 °C. During the growth period, sufficient water should be maintained, and the decomposed thin liquid fertilizer should be applied once every 15 days. When fertilizing, the fertilizer should not contaminate the leaves. When the summer is hot, avoid direct sunlight and sunshade at noon to avoid burning the leaves. Watering once a day in the morning and afternoon, pay attention to maintaining high air humidity. Always spray water on the leaves of the plants and water around the pots. During the growing period, the old leaves with yellowing and drooping should be cut off in time. If there is a flowering stem, it should be cut off to concentrate the nutrients and promote new leaves.
The buds of the buds are safe for the winter:
1 After the autumn, the tubers of the buds gradually enter hibernation, and the leaves of the soil are also withered. At this time, they can be poured out from the pots, the dead leaves of the tubers are cut off, placed in a ventilated place to dry, and then placed in the The sand is dried inside the basin. Sand should not be too dry or too wet, especially not too wet, otherwise it will rot. Place the indoor shade and wait until the spring of the next year to dig out the tubers from the sand pot and plant them in other pots. However, before the pots are planted, the base fertilizer should be applied, which is very important for future growth and development.
2 Do not dig out the sand, still stay in the original basin, move into the indoor ventilation area for the winter, the basin should be too dry and avoid too wet, and after the spring of the next year, pull out from the basin, re-upper basin (applying the base fertilizer) can be planted .
Make the leaves of the flower buds large and colorful: the key to the large color of the leaves of the buds is the winter storage. Its maintenance points:
1 Since September, the leaves of the leaves have begun to yellow, gradually wilting and drooping. At this time, watering should be controlled to stop fertilization. When the leaves are all withered, the tubers are taken out of the pots, and the indoor light is better. The air is dried in a dry and ventilated place for several days. It is stored in dry sand with no impurities after disinfection, and kept above 10 °C. Spray water once a month with a watering can. To keep the sand surface slightly moist. When digging the tubers, care should be taken not to damage the stems to avoid decay during winter storage.
2 In the early spring of the next year, remove the tuber cuts, or peel off the small tubers that are grown around, and plant at least one bud, and use the charcoal or ash to smear the incision. The potting soil is mixed with the rotted leaves. Feces and bone powder, after pouring enough water to the shade, after emergence, move to the semi-yin to maintain, pay attention to keep the surrounding air humidity.
3 tuber planting has two methods. One is that the tuber is facing upwards, which can promote rapid germination, but the growth is unbalanced throughout the year, and the main bud grows particularly vigorously. Another method is to pour the back of the tuber upwards, although the germination is slower. But there is more germination and a balanced growth. [10]
Fertilizer management: When the flower buds are cured, the potting soil should always be kept moist, and the topdressing should be appropriate. Do not pursue the thick fly. The leaf life of the spider mites is only one year. After the buds on the local stems mature, they can germination and new leaves. Appropriately apply some thin liquid fertilizer when pumping new leaves, and do not need to topdress at other times. Otherwise, the petiole grows too much for the teahouse and is not full enough. It is not only easy to break, but also the plant shape is loose. Whenever new leaves are pumped, they should stop topdressing immediately and reduce the amount of watering. When the plants enter a dormant state in winter, they should stop watering. Do not remove the pots and let the tubers overwinter in the potting soil. After the temperature rises in the next year, watering begins again, prompting it to regenerate new leaves.
The whole reproductive process of the flower bud is divided into two stages: the growth period and the dormancy period. In order to make the leaves of the mosaics bright and colorful, they should be carefully managed throughout the year to do a good job in maintenance. In the northern region, the family raises the flower buds, and the stored tubers can be taken out at the beginning of April-May, and the small tubers around the large tubers are peeled off.
Pots with a diameter of about 25 cm are suitable for planting 3 to 4 large tubers per pot. For example, in order to expand the amount of reproduction, the large tuber can also be cut into small pieces with 1 or 2 bud eyes by using a sterilized knife. The incision is coated with charcoal powder or ash, and the ash is preserved. After the incision is dried, the upper pot is dried. Potting soil should be selected from slightly acidic soil with loose and fertile water and drainage. Generally, 6 parts of humus soil or peat soil can be used, and 2 parts of garden soil and river sand are mixed and prepared, and a small amount of bone powder or decomposed cake fertilizer slag is added as base fertilizer. Watering and fertilizing should be timely and appropriate.
In the spring and summer growing season, the compound liquid fertilizer or the whole element flower fertilizer is applied once every 7 to 10 days, and the color is bright. If too much nitrogen is applied, the colored spots on the leaves will fade, affecting the viewing effect. Do not stain the leaves when applying liquid fertilizer to avoid the leaves. Watering in spring and autumn to keep the soil moist. If there is too much watering, and the drainage is not smooth, it will cause the tuber to rot; if the watering is too small, the potting soil is dry, which may lead to wilting of the leaves. The summer temperature is high, the water evaporates quickly, and the value of the flower buds grows vigorously. In addition to the sufficient watering, it is necessary to spray water on the leaf surface and sprinkle water on the ground near the flower pot for 2 to 3 times a day to facilitate cooling. Humidification, which is essential to keep the blades in good condition.
Autumn is the stage of tuber growth and development. At this time, it is necessary to increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote tuber growth. At the end of autumn, the temperature drops below 15 °C, and the leaves begin to yellow and gradually enter a dormant period. At this time, watering should be reduced to cause the tubers to go to sleep. The spider mites are half-yin in the growth period, avoiding direct sunlight, and the light intensity required is stronger than other yin-resistant foliage plants.
The light is too weak, the plant is easy to grow, the leaves are thin and long, and it is easy to lose the bright color and luster; but the light can not be too strong, because of the strong direct light, the young leaves are often easily burned. The lighting conditions required between the different varieties are slightly different. There are red plaques and bright colors, which need more light. If the light is insufficient, the spots will fade. Thin white varieties of leaves need less light, and strong light is easy to hurt the leaves.
The family should cultivate the flower buds. In summer, the pots should be placed in a well-ventilated, brightly lit place to prevent direct sunlight. Spring and autumn are placed in the semi-shade, in order to keep the leaves bright. If there is a flower stem, it should be cut off in time to reduce nutrient consumption, so as not to affect the growth of the leaves. When you find that there are old leaves with yellowing and drooping, you should cut them at any time to facilitate the sprouting of new leaves. The management of the spider mites in the dormant period must not be relaxed. If there is relaxation, it will be affected by freezing. The lighter will affect the growth in the coming year. The heavy ones will not germinate in the next year. Therefore, the experts who cultivate the buds of the buds have attached great importance to the wintering management.
The main points of management of the flower buds: First, the temperature should be appropriate, and second, the substrate should be dry and wet. As long as you master these two points, it will lay a good foundation for the growth of the next year. The specific method is: after the leaves of the leaves of the leaves are yellow, the tubers are taken out, and dried slightly, and then buried in the river sand for storage. If the number of tubers is small, it may not be taken out of the pot, and the tubers may be placed indoors for wintering. Keep the light away from the light during the winter and keep it properly ventilated. The temperature should not be too high or too low to keep it at 14~17 °C.
Because it does not germinate or freeze in this temperature range, it is safe and safe for winter. The substrate of the buried tubers should be dry and wet, in order to maintain the fresh state of the tubers. The matrix is ​​too dry, which may cause the tubers to shrink and affect the sprouting in the coming year. If the matrix is ​​too wet, it may cause the tubers to rot and lose the ability to germinate. It is better to have moisture.
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